Simone Rocha, daughter of John Rocha, has only been showing solo for a few seasons after first showing with Fashion East. Grabbing the spot light with her strong, feminine collections this young designer of 26 has been the chou chou of the fashion world for the last few years. Her AW13 collection is surprising light coloured for a winter collection and very pink. The forms, texture and attention to detail are what make her collections so popular.
Moschino Cheap & Chic, Moschino’s playful younger sister, is always fun and adventurous. Creative director Rosella Jardini, always shows the brand’s younger label during London’s Fashion Week as she believes London is at the forefront of young, playful fashion, which I definitely second.
For the young fashion savvy girl on a budget and on the look out for something silly yet feminine Moschino Cheap and Chic’s latest collection is nice and bright to blow those winter blues away – although admittedly we have to wait until next winter to wear!!
Always on the edge of tacky, we see lots of garish colours, lots of leopard print, graffiti prints and 80s inspired shapes, dropped waists and dresses with peter-pan collars and exaggerated pussy bows.
Love Moschino Cheap and Chic for a bit of feminine fun.
So my London Fashion Week Round-up AW13 must start with Orla Kiely’s presentation. The way she approached the presentation format was something I hadn’t seen before, like stumbling across a 50s movie set in action, except the beautiful mannequins were in constant rotation. The set had been designed to look like a 1950s style office with models posing as the office secretaries. Orla Kiely, renowned for her 50s style and patterns, has produced a beautifully, wearable collection for AW13/14. Yes it may not so “fashion forward”, but what Kiely does best is her graphic patterns and kitsch sweetness. This women’s brand keeps going from strength to strength as buyers can’t get enough of her. Sweet collection.
Marios Schwab’s SS13 collection was beautifully romantic. Models looked like tiger-lily princesses as the accessories, hair and make-up all had a Pocahontas feel. The clothes were thigh-skimming, sheer and figure hugging – I can imagine any dress making any woman look amazing – that’s what is so great about Schwab’s designs. Although the taffeta-like fringing on most of the garments add a quirky edge.
I remember when Holly Fulton was the hot topic back when she debuted her collection in 2009. I was working for Louise Gray at the time when Fulton moved from Fashion East to Newgen. Everyone around me was making so much fuss about her collection, in and out of her post-catwalk booth at Somerset House like there was some freak show going on in there. I recollect, after having had a nosy myself, that I didn’t really like the collection so much; sure I appreciated the skill and it was something unseen before, but I found it a bit square and unflattering.
After catching up on all the live-streams from Saturday’s catwalks, WOW was I in for an amazing treat. Holly Fulton’s SS13 collection is to die for. It completely took me by surprise. The colours, the shapes, the textile designs – absolutely gorgeous.
In keeping with her signature art deco themes and love for all things geometrical – the pieces had Fulton written all over them – but the shapes she had cut were so feminine and flattering. The textile print designs were out of this world, intricate and mind baffling – they had a kaleidoscope effect to them. A beautiful rose print appeared on most of the garments in a variety of colours and sizes, they too added to the overall feminine feel of this collection. As can be expected with Fulton, the garments were accessorised fittingly with the designers luxurious art-deco jewellery designs.
A must see collection. You can view her ss13 catwalk show on London Fashion Week’s official site.
rights to photographs used belong to YourMotherShouldKnow
Unfortunately as I am currently moving into my Parisian apartment right smack bang in the middle of THE fashion season, I have to grin and bear the fact that I will be watching the catwalk shows from my macbook. It never is the same but I’ll be back to it in February.
So this season I shall be picking my favourite designers, watching their live-streams and giving you a quick round-up.
Let me start with Bora Aksu – ever since his graduation from Central St Martins in 2002, the Turkish designer has never lost favour with the fash pack. Today’s catwalk show lived up to Aksu’s undying reputation for dark romanticism. For his pre-collection ss13 Aksu took inspiration from Marie, Queen Victoria’s grand-daughter who became the Queen of Romania.
Garment themes: Lace, textured tulle, drapery, floating fabrics, fluid lines, sketch-like motifs, peter-pan collars.
Models were made over into royal poupettes by legendary make-up artist Ellis Faas. The look was finished with a crochet crown.
Light colours of powder blue, moonlight blue, lavender contrasted beautifully with canary yellow, rouge and maroon.